The Trellis Cookbook: Contemporary American Cooking in Colonial Williamsburg - Hardcover

Marcel Desaulniers is the executive chef and co-owner of The Trellis Restaurant. A graduate of The Culinary Institute of America, and now a member of their board of trustees, Desaulniers has received many awards in his lifetime, including the 1983 Food & Wine Magazine's Honor Roll of American Chefs, and COOK'S Magazine first Who's Who of Cooking in America in 1984.

Chapter 1

APPETIZERS

SPRING

Grilled Skewers of Snails and Chicken on Red Pepper Capellini

Serves 8

5 large red bell peppers, halved and seeded

1 cup water

3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

2 eggs

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup cornmeal

10 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

6 tablespoons minced shallots Salt and pepper to season

12 tablespoons dry white wine

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

2 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic

48 snails (two 4 1/2 -ounce cans of 24/26 count), thoroughly washed

3 tablespoons brandy

2 pounds boneless and skinless chicken breast, cut into 48 pieces (each piece about 1 inch square)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

EQUIPMENT: Paring knife, film wrap, 2 1/2 -quart saucepan, measuring cup, food processor, rubber spatula, measuring spoons, cutting board, fork, pasta machine, two baking sheets, parchment paper, French knife, two non-stick sauté pans, stainless-steel bowl, wooden spoon, eight 9-inch bamboo or metal skewers, charcoal grill, tongs, 5-quart saucepan, colander, pastry brush

Cut 3 of the peppers into 32 strips the length of the pepper and 1/2 inch wide. Cover with film wrap and refrigerate until needed. Cut the remaining peppers into 1-inch pieces. Place in a 2 1/2 -quart saucepan with 1 cup lightly salted water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Lower the heat and simmer until all the water has evaporated, about 45 minutes. Cool for 15 minutes, then purée in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 15 minutes.

Prepare the pasta dough by placing 3 cups flour on a clean, dry cutting board or similar work surface. Make a well in the center, add the eggs, cooled pepper purée, olive oil, and 1 teaspoon salt. Using a fork, combine the eggs, pepper purée, olive oil, and salt. When thoroughly mixed, begin to work the flour into the center, a small amount at a time. When enough flour has been added so that you can handle the dough, begin kneading by hand. Knead the dough by hand until all the flour has been incorporated, about 10 minutes. Cover the dough with film wrap and allow to relax at room temperature for 1 hour.

Cut the pasta dough into 8 equal portions. Roll and knead each portion of dough through a pasta machine, using the extra 1/4 cup flour as necessary to prevent the dough from becoming tacky. Cut the sheets of dough into capellini (see page 359). To prevent sticking, toss the cut pasta with cornmeal, then place the cut pasta portions on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover the sheet tightly with film wrap and refrigerate until needed.

Prepare a garlic butter by heating 2 tablespoons butter in a non-stick sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter is hot, add 2 tablespoons minced shallots, season with salt and pepper, and sauté for 1 minute. Add 6 tablespoons wine and continue to heat until the wine has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Allow the reduced wine and shallot mixture to cool at room temperature for 30 minutes; then combine with 6 tablespoons butter, the chopped parsley, and 1/2 tablespoon minced garlic. Season with salt and pepper and keep at room temperature.

dHeat the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a non-stick sauté pan over medium high heat. When the butter is hot, add the remaining 4 tablespoons minced shallots and 2 tablespoons minced garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Add the snails, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until hot, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the remaining 6 tablespoons wine and the brandy. Reduce the heat and cook slowly for 15 minutes. Cool at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Combine the chicken pieces with the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Skewer the snails and chicken pieces, alternating 6 pieces of each item per skewer. The skewers may be prepared up to this point and refrigerated until needed.

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.

Grill the skewers and red pepper strips over a low charcoal or wood fire, turning regularly, for 4 to 5 minutes. While the skewers are cooking, baste with a small amount of garlic butter. Transfer the skewers and pepper strips to a baking sheet and once again baste with a small amount of garlic butter. Hold warm in the preheated oven.

Cook the pasta (see page 359) in 3 quarts boiling salted water until tender but firm to the bite, about 20 seconds. Drain the cooked pasta in a colander, return to the pan, and toss with the remaining garlic butter.

Portion the pasta onto 8 warm soup/pasta plates. Place 1 skewer and 4 grilled pepper strips on each portion of pasta and serve immediately.

The Chef's Touch

The preparation of fresh snails is an arduous task, but fortunately one that a cook on this side of the Atlantic need not worry about, since fresh snails are rarely, if ever, available in the United States. The snails available are canned and usually come from France or Taiwan, although recently a delicious canned tiny snail from California has come on the market. For this recipe, I recommend that a 24-count (2 dozen per can) snail from France or Taiwan be used; the California snail is too tiny for skewering and grilling.

Smaller skewers of chicken and snails, basted with garlic butter, would make an excellent hot hors d'oeuvres.

A sauvignon blanc with just the right balance of fruit and acidity would be my wine selection. Try a Matanzas Creek.

SPRING

Grilled Smoked Duck Breast with Country Ham, Melon, and Pistachio Dressing

Serves 4

1 whole duck

1 cup warm water

1/2 cup kosher salt

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 cup cool water

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3/4 cup peanut oil

1/4 cup cider vinegar

2 ounces pistachios, shelled, skinned, and crushed

Salt and pepper to season

1 small cantaloupe, peeled, halved, and seeded

2 ounces country ham, sliced thin (about 6 slices) (see page 368)

1 medium head Bibb lettuce, washed and dried

EQUIPMENT: Cutting board, boning knife, measuring spoons, measuring cup, two stainless-steel bowls, baking sheet, paper towels, "Little Chief" smoker, charcoal grill, tongs, French knife, whisk, film wrap, serrated slicer

Remove the breasts from the duck (see page 360). Trim all fat and membrane from them.

Prepare the brine by combining the warm water, kosher salt, and sugar in a stainless-steel bowl. Add the cool water and stir to combine. Submerge the breasts in the brine for 2 minutes. Remove and pat dry with paper towels.

Lightly coat the bottom rack of a smoker (see page 364) with the vegetable oil. Place the duck breasts on the rack. Smoke for 2 1/2 hours.

Remove the breasts from the smoker and grill over a low charcoal or wood fire for 2 1/2 to 3 minutes on each side. (If grilling is not practical, roast the smoked duck breasts in a preheated 350-degree oven for 5 minutes.) Cool the breasts to room temperature, then refrigerate, uncovered, until thoroughly cool, about 1 hour.

Prepare the dressing by whisking together, in a stainless-steel bowl, the peanut oil and cider vinegar. Add the crushed pistachios, season with salt and pepper, and combine thoroughly. Cover with film wrap and refrigerate until needed.

Slice the breasts on an angle by tilting the cutting edge of a serrated slicer away from your hand and making the slices as thin (front to back) and as wide (top to bottom) as possible.

Cut the halved cantaloupe into 1/4-inch slices.

Cut the slices of ham in half, to yield 12 semicircular slices.

Arrange equal portions of lettuce leaves on 4 chilled plates. Place 3 half slices of ham on top of the lettuce. Portion melon slices over the ham. Arrange the duck slices over the melon. Dress each plate with 1/4 cup of the chilled dressing and serve.

The Chef's Touch

In this recipe, our variation on an old theme, we have the subtle smoke-flavored duck riding on the sweetness of the melon, countered by the saltiness of the country ham, which, in turn, is set off by the elegance of the pistachio dressing.

Although we have used pistachios in this recipe, other nuts, such as cashews or macadamia nuts, would also work well with the flavors of the duck, melon, and country ham.

The country ham used at The Trellis is a salt-cured and hickory-smoked product. The assertive flavor of this ham requires that it be used in judicious amounts. In this particular recipe, it is essential that the ham be sliced very thin. As you will only need a small amount (2 ounces), it will probably be more practical for you to purchase fully cooked salt-cured ham already sliced thin from your local delicatessen or fancy food store.

What to do with the duck legs, you are asking yourself? Marinate them in red wine for three days and grill. Or, if you have doubled or tripled the recipe and have several pairs on hand, you might want to cure them (see page 105).

We first served this appetizer at The Trellis in May 1981, for our premier Virginia vintners' barrel tasting. That evening, we paired the duck, melon, and ham with an openly fruity 1980 Ingelside Vineyards seyval blanc. It proved an agreeable match.

SPRING

Asparagus with Brown Butter and Parmesan Cheese on Pistachio Fettuccine

Serves 4

3/4 pound pistachios, shelled and skinned

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

2 eggs

1 egg yolk

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup cornmeal

3/4 pound fresh asparagus

12 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon water salt and pepper to season

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

EQUIPMENT: Cutting board, French knife, food processor, measuring cup, rubber spatula, fork, film wrap, pasta machine, baking sheet, parchment paper, vegetable peeler, two 5-quart saucepans, measuring spoons, two stainless-steel bowls, two non-stick sauté pans, colander, tongs

Lightly crush and reserve a third of the pistachios. Process the remaining pistachios in a food processor fitted with a metal blade, adding 1 1/2 cups flour, 1/2 cup at a time. Pulse until all the pistachios are ground and incorporated into the flour, about 4 minutes.

Prepare the pasta dough by placing the pistachio flour on a clean, dry cutting board or similar work surface. Make a well in the center and add the eggs, egg yolk, olive oil, and salt. Using a fork, combine the eggs, olive oil, and salt. When thoroughly mixed, begin to work the flour into the center, a small amount at a time. When enough flour has been added so that you can handle the dough, begin kneading by hand. Knead the dough by hand until all the flour has been incorporated, about 10 minutes. Cover the dough with film wrap and allow to relax at room temperature for 1 hour.

Cut the pasta dough into 4 equal portions. Roll and knead each portion of dough through a pasta machine, using the extra 1/4 cup flour as necessary to prevent the dough from becoming tacky. Cut the sheets of dough into fettuccine (see page 359). To prevent sticking, toss the cut pasta with the cornmeal, then place the pasta portions on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover the sheet tightly with film wrap and refrigerate until needed.

Snap the woody stem off each stalk of asparagus and peel the asparagus. Blanch the asparagus in 3 quarts boiling salted water until it is tender but still crisp, about 45 seconds. Transfer immediately to a bowl of ice water. When the asparagus is cool, drain and cut into 1 1/4-inch pieces. Cover with film wrap and refrigerate until needed.

Heat 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon water in a non-stick sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter is hot, add the asparagus, season with salt and pepper, and sauté for 5 minutes.

While the asparagus is cooking, place a non-stick sauté pan over medium high heat. When the pan is very hot, add 8 tablespoons butter and allow the butter to brown evenly.

While the butter is browning and the asparagus is heating, cook the pasta (see page 359) in 3 quarts boiling salted water for 30 to 45 seconds, depending on the thickness and the preferred degree of doneness. Drain the pasta in a colander, return to the pan, and toss with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter.

Place equal portions of the pasta on 4 warm plates. Divide the hot asparagus over the pasta. Add the lemon juice to the brown butter, shaking the pan vigorously so that the butter does not foam over the sides of the pan. Carefully pour equal amounts of the brown butter over each portion of pasta. Sprinkle Parmesan cheese and the reserved crushed pistachios over the top of each portion and serve immediately.

The Chef's Touch

The pistachios in this recipe can be replaced by a number of other nuts. Pecans, almonds, skinned hazelnuts, or walnuts would make excellent substitutes. Use 1 1/2 cups of the type of nut you choose; crush and reserve one third for the topping and process the remainder in the food processor with the flour as described.

Although asparagus frustrates many food and wine pairing experts, I have no inhibitions about suggesting a Trefethen white riesling to enhance the specific flavors in this dish.

SPRING

Marinated Soft-shell Crabs with Zucchini and Sweet Peppers

Serves 8

8 live jumbo soft-shell crabs

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Salt and pepper to season

3 medium red bell peppers, seeded and cut into thin, 1 1/4-inch-long strips

1 cup olive oil

6 tablespoons white vinegar

6 tablespoons dry white wine

1 scallion, trimmed and minced

1 small jalapeño pepper, roasted, seeded, and minced (see page 358)

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh basil

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh dill

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 pounds zucchini, lightly peeled

EQUIPMENT: Paring knife, cutting board, measuring spoons, baking sheet with sides, film wrap, tongs, French knife, two stainless-steel bowls, measuring cup, whisk, charcoal grill, flat plastic container

Dress the crabs (see page 360). Sprinkle the lemon juice over the crabs and season with salt and pepper. Place the crabs on a sided baking sheet lined with film wrap. Cover the sheet tightly with film wrap and refrigerate until needed.

Mince enough of the red pepper strips to yield 1 tablespoon. Cover the remaining red pepper strips with film wrap and refrigerate until needed. Prepare the dressing by whisking together, in a stainless-steel bowl, the olive oil, vinegar, wine, minced red pepper, scallion, jalapeño, herbs, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper and combine thoroughly. Cover with film wrap and refrigerate until needed.

Season the crabs with salt and pepper. Grill the crabs over a medium hot charcoal or wood fire for 1 1/2 minutes on each side, shell side first. Transfer the crabs to a flat plastic, ceramic, or stainless-steel container (do not use aluminum). Pour 1 cup of the dressing over the still-warm crabs. Cover with film wrap and marinate the crabs in the refrigerator for 3 hours.

Cut the zucchini into 2 1/2-inch-long sections. Cut each section into 1/4-inch-thick planks, cutting only the smooth-textured part of the squash and not the seeded center section (discard the center). Cut each plank into long, thin strips.