Combining an insider's passion with down-to-earth humor, chef and food writer Patric Kuh traces the evolution of American high-style restaurants from the 1941 opening of Le Pavillon to the recent rise of less traditional restaurants, such as Le Cirque, Spago, and Danny Meyer's Union Square group. Kuh takes readers inside this high-stakes business, sharing little-known anecdotes, describing legendary cooks and bright new star chefs, and relating his own reminiscences. Populated by a host of food personalities, including Julia Child, M.F.K. Fisher, and James Beard, Kuh's social and cultural history of America's great restaurants reveals the dramatic transformations in U.S. cuisine.
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The story begins in 1939 with the arrival in New York of Henri Soulé, maître restaurateur of the city's very luxe Le Pavillon. It proceeds to explore such dining milestones as the counterculture-spawned Chez Panisse, Spago and other grilled-pizza lodestars, Sirio Maccione's post-elitist Le Cirque, and Danny Meyer's high-end yet democratized Union Square Cafe. It also tells of food deities like Julia Child, M.F.K. Fisher, James Beard, and Alice Waters--and the cookbook writers, celebrity chefs, and restaurateurs (roles sometimes embodied in a single person) who help craft our modern culinary world. A chef himself, Kuh also presents (sometimes gratuitously) personal anecdotes about the back-of-the-house restaurant cosmos. The Last Days of Haute Cuisine will delight readers with even a passing interest in the American food scene; they will learn much about the restaurant business, its life and lore, and, finally, the way we eat today.
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